The “Holy Land” of the First Century: My Biblical Pilgrimage to Ephesus, Laodicea, Hierapolis, and Smyrna

The region of western Turkey—once part of ancient Asia Minor—holds some of the richest biblical history in the world. Ephesus, Laodicea, Hierapolis and Smyrna have stood through the rise and fall of six major empires: the Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, and now the Turkish Republic. Each empire left its mark, layering culture, religion, and architecture in ways you can still feel as you walk their stone streets.

On this trip, I had the privilege of visiting all four sites. Ephesus, Laodicea, and Syrnma are three of the seven churches addressed in Revelation, and Hierapolis was home to a thriving first-century Christian community. What follows is less of a travel diary, insights I gathered from the archaeological tours, on-site devotionals, my own research, and Mark Wilson’s Biblical Turkey: A Guide to the Jewish and Christian Sites of Asia Minor.

---

Ephesus

Ephesus was once one of the most important cities in the Roman Empire—a major center of trade, administration, and culture. During the first century, it was the fourth-largest city in the entire empire and a bustling commercial port (now 3 miles inland due to millennia of silting). Excavations began in 1863 and continue today, primarily led by Austrian archaeologists.

A Hub of Early Christianity

Ephesus played a significant role in the early church:

• Paul visited twice—briefly in A.D. 52 during his second missionary journey, and again from A.D. 54–57, when he stayed for nearly three years.
• He left Priscilla and Aquila there, who helped teach Apollos and many others.
• Ephesus became a major center of Christian teaching, repentance, and revival.
• Yet Paul’s influence also disrupted the local economy—specifically the trade of pagan idols—sparking a riot that eventually forced him to leave.

Tradition also teaches that the apostle John lived in Ephesus, and that he brought Mary, the mother of Jesus, with him. Many believe the Gospel of John was written here as well. Both John and Mary are associated with resting places in the surrounding hills.

A City Defined by Artemis… and Then Redefined by Christ

Ephesus was home to the Temple of Artemis, once one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Not to be confused with the Greek goddess of the hunt, Artemis of the Ephesians was the deity of fertility, nature, and motherhood. The temple was enormous, influential, and deeply tied to Ephesian identity. It was destroyed by the Goths in A.D. 262 and never rebuilt.

This makes Paul’s message in Ephesians even more striking. In a city proud of its temple, Paul writes that Christians themselves are the new temple—a holy people, built up in unity, holiness, and love. The contrast is intentional and powerful.

Ephesus in the New Testament

Ephesians:
Though associated with Ephesus, the earliest manuscripts of the book don’t specify a particular audience. Scholars believe it may have been a manifesto shared among multiple churches. In it, Paul emphasizes:

• The incredible grace and forgiveness of God
• The gift of salvation from sin for a larger spiritual purpose (becoming “new humans” in Christ)
• Unity under one church, one Spirit, one baptism
• A lifestyle of truth, reconciliation, love, forgiveness, and wisdom
• Standing firm in spiritual battle by putting on the armor of God

Acts:
Luke gives a vivid account of Paul’s ministry in Ephesus—teaching about baptism, healing the sick, and confronting spiritual darkness. Many repented, confessing their sins and publicly burning their sorcery scrolls. The gospel visibly transformed the city, so much so that Paul was forced to flee when a riot ensued.

Revelation:
Jesus addresses the church in Ephesus with both praise (parakaleo) and correction (noutheteo). They had deeds, discipline, doctrine, and determination—but they had “forsaken the love they had at first.” In His letter to the Ephesians, Jesus calls them to:

1. Remember
2. Repent
3. Return to their first love through renewed action

As you walk the marble roads of Ephesus, it’s impossible not to reflect on this tension: a church that began with passion and courage yet slowly drifted from its heart.

---

Hierapolis:

A City Built on Healing—and Death

Hierapolis (modern-day Pamukkale) was named for its reputation as a “holy city” (Hiera meaning “sacred”). It housed major temples dedicated to Apollo and Pluto, and it became famous throughout the Roman Empire for its mineral-rich hot springs. Pilgrims came from all over the empire seeking healing, which ironically resulted in a massive number of deaths. The city’s necropolis—a sprawling cemetery—stretches for kilometers and contains hundreds of elaborate stone tombs. Each body and tomb prepared for the afterlife.

The supernatural healing could be attributed to the calcium terraces which appear like frozen waterfalls, cascading down the mountainside. Even today, one can wade in warm mineral pools once believed to restore health.

A City of Grand Temples and Dark Legends

Hierapolis had major temples to Apollo and Pluto. It was wealthy, magnificent, and deeply spiritual—but spiritually lost.

Nearby the theater was the Plutonion, a cave emitting toxic gases that was said to kill all who entered instantly. The Romans believed it to be an entrance to Hades and built a temple over it. Only specially trained priests were allowed near.

Likewise, the triumphal entrance into the agora, the Gate of Domitian, named after the Roman emperor who demanded worship as a god, reminds visitors of a man so cruel that words “dementor” and “dominate” derive from his name.

Biblical Reference and Christian Tradition

Philip the Apostle: Martyrdom and Faithfulness:
For centuries, early Christians believed the apostle Philip was martyred here—crucified upside down by his ankles. In 2011, archaeologists discovered a tomb believed to be his with his bones still inside. Six years later, further investination confirmed the validity of these claims.

Standing near the place where an apostle died for the gospel brought Christianity out of abstraction and into reality. This faith was built on the blood of real people.

Paul’s Concern for the Church:
Hierapolis appears only once in scripture, in Colossians 4:13, where Paul acknowledges Epaphras’s concern for the church there. Even this short reference reminds me: every small Christian community mattered deeply to God.

---

Laodicea: Lukewarm Faith and the Mercy of Refinement

A Wealthy City with a Fatal Weakness

Laodicea, founded by Antiochus II and named after his wife Laodice (who later poisoned him), was one of the wealthiest cities in Asia Minor. It was a banking hub, a manufacturing center, and so prosperous that after a devastating earthquake in A.D. 17, Laodicea refused Rome’s financial aid and funded its own reconstruction.

Though smaller than Ephesus or Hierapolis, Laodicea boasted two amphitheaters, a testament to its love for comfort, entertainment, and pleasure.

Yet this wealthy city had one fatal flaw: no natural water source. Water piped in from miles away arrived lukewarm.

Not hot like Hierapolis.
Not cold like Colossae.
Just…tepid.

The Spiritual Message Behind Its Water

In Revelation 3:14–22, Jesus uses the city’s subpar water supply as a metaphor:

“You are lukewarm…neither hot nor cold—I am about to spit you out of my mouth.”

The people believed their wealth made them secure. But Laodicea’s water reflected its spiritual condition—tepid, self-sufficient, and unaware of its need for God. Jesus tells them that although they claim to be rich and in need of nothing, spiritually they are:

“wretched, miserable, poor, blind, and naked.”

Yet His rebuke is merciful, offering them a path back:

• “Buy from me gold refined by fire.”
• “Wear white garments of purity.”
• “Let me heal your blindness.”

A Personal Wake-Up Call

Walking through Laodicea, this message hit me personally.

It reminded me of myself back in San Diego—living comfortably, with a great job, a beautiful city, a wonderful relationship. I did all the “Christian things”—led Bible talks, served at church—but deep down, I didn’t feel like I needed Jesus. I was spiritually lukewarm (and ready to be spit out).

But in His love, Jesus took away the things I clung to so I could cling to Him. He refined me by fire. He stripped away the comforts I depended on so that I could see, and so that He could become the source of my life again.

Praise God for His mercy—even when it burns.

---

Smyrna:

A Gateway City

Although small before the Greek era, Smyrna was rebuilt after Alexander the Great reportedly had a dream that it would one day become a great port. He was right.

Unlike the previous cities, ancient Smyrna lies beneath the modern metropolis of Izmir. For much of its history, Smyrna was a strategic port city on the Aegean Sea, perfectly positioned as the main gateway between Asia Minor and Europe. Its name likely comes from “myrrh,” one of its major exports.

It was the last Christian city to fall to the Turks in 1402, resulting in a mass massacre of Christians. Even its later history is marked by faith under fire.

A Legacy of Martyrdom

Smyrna was also home to Polycarp, a beloved second-century bishop and apostle of John. He preached boldly throughout Asia Minor and was eventually burned at the stake for refusing to deny Christ.

His last recorded words were:

“Eighty-six years I have served Him, and He has done me no wrong.
How can I blaspheme my King who saved me?”

Smyrna is a city marked by faith under fire. Like its second-century patriarch, it was the last Christian city in Asia Minor to fall to Turkish (muslim) forces in 1402, resulting in a brutal massacre of believers.

The Only Church Not Rebuked

In Revelation 2:8–11, Jesus speaks tenderly to the Smyrnan believers. Unlike the other churches, Smyrna receives no criticism—only encouragement.

He acknowledges their poverty, tribulation, the slander endured, and forewarned of coming suffering.

The slander Jesus mentions is historically fascinating. Christians in Smyrna worshiped the God of Israel alongside local Jews (at the synagogue), but unlike the Jews, they refused to participate in emperor worship. Fearing Roman retaliation, the Jews spread rumors—calling them cannibals (for taking communion), incestuous (calling each other brother and sister), and immoral.

Yet the church endured with humility and devotion. While Laodicea was rich and spiritually dead, Smyrna was materially poor but spiritually alive.

They had nothing—but in Christ, they had everything. And Jesus calls them rich:

“Be faithful unto death, and I will give you the crown of life.”

---

Conclusion: Ancient Stones, Living Lessons

Traveling through these ancient cities felt like walking through the pages of Scripture. Each city spoke a different message:

• Ephesus called me to remember my first love.
• Hierapolis reminded me of the costliness of faith and the nearness of eternity.
• Laodicea exposed the danger of comfort and the beauty of refinement.
• Smyrna inspired me with its courage, humility, and hope.

Standing among ruins that have withstood empires, earthquakes, and centuries, I felt the unshakeable truth that God’s kingdom alone endures. These places are silent now—the theaters empty, the temples destroyed—but the gospel planted there continues to change lives.

This pilgrimage taught me that God is not confined to ancient sites or distant history—He is still speaking, still refining, still calling His people to faithfulness today.

May we have ears to hear.
May we have hearts that respond.
And may we be faithful to the end.